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- Our quick picks
- How you connect them matters more than the wattage
- 2.0 or 2.1, and studio monitors versus computer speakers
- The computer speakers we would actually buy
- Also in the running
- Why some popular models are missing
- How to narrow it down
- Getting the best out of them
- Frequently asked questions
- Short version
Our quick picks
| Best at | Our pick | Check it |
|---|---|---|
| Best sound for the money | PreSonus Eris E3.5 | View on Amazon → |
| Best budget pick, and the deepest review base anywhere | Creative Pebble 2.0 | View on Amazon → |
| Best all-rounder, and the most inputs | Edifier R1280DB | View on Amazon → |
| Best plug-in-and-forget option | Bose Companion 2 Series III | View on Amazon → |
| Best small speakers with Bluetooth and USB-C | Creative Pebble V3 | View on Amazon → |
| Best for films and surround gaming | Logitech Z906 5.1 | View on Amazon → |
| Our pick | 0 or 5.1 for gaming? | View on Amazon → |
The rest of this page is the reasoning, the relevant specifications and the drawbacks.
Two things about this category, and the second one is free.
The biggest improvement is the first one. Going from a laptop’s built-in speakers or a monitor’s to almost any real pair of powered speakers is a bigger jump than any upgrade you will ever make afterwards. Laptop and monitor speakers are small drivers firing downwards or backwards into a desk, which is about the worst arrangement possible. Spend a modest amount and the difference is startling; spend a great deal more and the difference gets small quickly.
And placement matters more than money. A cheap pair positioned properly sounds better than an expensive pair sitting flat on a desk behind a monitor. This costs nothing:
- Get the tweeters roughly at ear height when you are sitting normally. On a desk that usually means raising them — stands, a pair of small risers, or a couple of books.
- Angle them at your head, so the two speakers and your ears form a rough triangle. Speakers firing straight down the desk are throwing most of their treble past you.
- Get them off the desk surface. A desk is a large flat resonator, and a speaker sitting directly on it transmits vibration into the whole panel, which muddies and exaggerates the bass. Isolation pads or stands are the cheapest genuine upgrade in this guide.
- Leave a few inches behind them, because a rear-ported speaker pushed against a wall gets boomy.
- Keep them symmetrical. One speaker in a corner and one in open space will never sound right.
Do those five things with any of the picks below and you will get more out of them than most people get out of speakers costing several times as much.
How you connect them matters more than the wattage
Wattage figures in this category are close to meaningless — some brands quote RMS, some quote peak, and none of it is comparable. The connection is the specification that actually changes what you hear.
- 3.5mm analogue uses your computer’s own headphone output, which on a cheap laptop or motherboard can mean a faint hiss, or a whine that changes when you scroll. If you can hear interference, this is why.
- USB bypasses the computer’s analogue output entirely, because the speaker does the digital-to-analogue conversion itself. On a machine with a noisy headphone jack this alone can be the difference between clean and not.
- Bluetooth is convenient and adds latency, so video can look slightly out of sync and games feel late. Fine for music, wrong as your only connection for gaming or editing.
- Optical is clean and immune to electrical noise, and only some sources have it. If your monitor, television or console has an optical output, a speaker that takes it is worth seeking out.
- RCA or TRS inputs are what studio monitors use, and they generally sound better from a dedicated source. They also mean you need the right cables, which are not always in the box.
The practical advice: prefer a speaker with more than one input. A pair that takes USB and Bluetooth and a 3.5mm line will still be useful when your computer changes, and it lets you switch between a PC and a phone without unplugging anything.
2.0 or 2.1, and studio monitors versus computer speakers
A 2.0 system is two speakers. A 2.1 adds a subwoofer, which gives you bass a small cabinet physically cannot, at the cost of a box under your desk, another cable, and a real chance of annoying whoever lives below you. In an apartment we would usually choose 2.0 and accept less bass, because a good pair of bookshelf speakers sounds cleaner through the midrange — which is where voices, dialogue and most instruments live.
Studio monitors are a really different product. They are designed to be uncolored, so nothing is flattered. On first listen they can sound less exciting than consumer speakers that boost the bass and treble, and after an hour most people prefer them, because nothing is being exaggerated at you. They are the best value in this category if you listen carefully, and the wrong choice if you want a speaker that makes everything sound thrilling.
The computer speakers we would actually buy
1. PreSonus Eris E3.5 — best sound for the money
Rated 4.7 stars across more than 21,500 ratings. A pair of small active studio monitors with 3.5-inch woven drivers, silk-dome tweeters, a front headphone socket and a front volume knob.
These are the pick for anyone who cares what music sounds like. They are studio monitors rather than computer speakers, which means the sound is deliberately flat — nothing is boosted to impress you in a shop. The result is that voices sound like voices, you hear detail in recordings you know well, and long listening sessions are not fatiguing.
Twenty-one thousand ratings at 4.7 in a category full of plastic desk speakers is a strong signal, and a large share of those reviews are from people who bought them as an upgrade from something they thought was fine.
Practical details that matter daily: the volume knob and the headphone socket are on the front, not the back, which sounds trivial until you have owned a speaker where they are not.
- Deep review base at the highest rating here
- Flat, uncolored sound — detail rather than exaggeration
- Front volume control and front headphone socket
- RCA and TRS inputs, plus a 3.5mm input
- Small enough for a desk but actually capable
- Best value in the guide if sound quality is the priority
The downside: there is no Bluetooth and no USB — these are analogue monitors, so you plug them into an output and that is that. You will probably want the right cable, which may not be in the box. Being flat means they are not exciting on first listen, and if you specifically want thumping bass they are the wrong choice. They are also physically larger than desk speakers and need to be raised to ear height to be worth having, so budget for stands or pads. And there is a newer generation of this model, so check which version a listing is offering.
Check the current price on Amazon →
2. Creative Pebble 2.0 — best budget pick, and the deepest review base anywhere
Rated 4.6 stars across more than 68,100 ratings, which is the deepest review base in this guide by a very wide margin. Two small spherical speakers, angled upward at 45 degrees, powered and fed by a single USB cable.
This is the default recommendation for anyone upgrading from laptop or monitor speakers on a small budget, and the reason it has sixty-eight thousand ratings is that it does exactly what it says. One cable, no power brick, no setup, and an enormous improvement over built-in sound for very little money.
The 45-degree angle is the design detail worth noting: it aims the drivers up at your face from a desk rather than across it, which is the single most common thing cheap desk speakers get wrong.
- Deepest review base of anything in this guide
- Single USB cable for both power and audio — no power brick
- Drivers angled up at your head, which is the right geometry for a desk
- Tiny footprint, so it fits any desk
- Enormous improvement over laptop or monitor speakers
- Cheap enough to buy on impulse and still be pleased
What you give up: there is very little bass, because there is very little cabinet — physics rather than a defect. USB power from a low-power port can limit the volume, so a powered hub or a proper port matters. There is no Bluetooth on the 2.0 version. And it is a small-room, one-person-at-a-desk speaker; it will not fill a living room and is not meant to.
Check the current price on Amazon →
3. Edifier R1280DB — best all-rounder, and the most inputs
Rated 4.6 stars across roughly 4,800 ratings. Proper powered bookshelf speakers in wood cabinets, with Bluetooth, optical, coaxial and two analogue inputs, plus a remote control.
This is the pick if the speakers have to do more than one job. On a desk they are a serious upgrade over anything plastic, with real cabinet volume and therefore real bass. Take the optical input and they also work as the speakers for a television or a monitor. Take Bluetooth and a phone plays through them. The remote means you are not reaching behind a monitor to change the volume.
Wood cabinets are not decoration here — a rigid enclosure with some volume to it is what produces bass without a subwoofer, which is why these sound fuller than any desk speaker of similar price.
- Bluetooth, optical, coaxial and two analogue inputs
- Remote control, which matters more than it sounds
- Real wooden cabinets, so real bass without a subwoofer
- Bass and treble controls on the side
- Also works as television or monitor speakers
- Solid rating on a decent review base
The part that annoys people: they are bookshelf speakers, so they are considerably bigger than desk speakers and a small desk will feel crowded. The controls are on the side of the right-hand speaker, so plan which side that goes. Reviewers note Bluetooth is the older, basic sort and pairing is not as slick as a modern speaker. And they are rear-ported, so pushing them against a wall will make them boomy — leave a gap.
Check the current price on Amazon →
4. Bose Companion 2 Series III — best plug-in-and-forget option
Rated 4.6 stars across more than 17,600 ratings. Two small speakers, one 3.5mm cable, a second input for a phone, and a volume and headphone control pod.
These have been on sale for a long time and the review base reflects it. There is nothing clever about them: no Bluetooth, no app, no optical input. What they do is sound noticeably fuller than their size suggests, work the moment you plug them in, and keep working for years.
It is the pick for someone who does not want to think about audio. Two cables, a volume knob within reach, done. For an older relative’s computer, an office machine or anyone who finds Bluetooth pairing an irritation rather than a feature, this is the sensible choice.
- Deep review base at a good rating
- Works the instant you plug it in — nothing to configure
- Sounds fuller than the cabinet size suggests
- Control pod with volume and a headphone socket within reach
- Second input, so a phone can share them
- Long-established product with a reputation for lasting
Where it disappoints: no Bluetooth, no USB and no optical — analogue only, which means it inherits whatever noise your computer’s headphone output has. It is expensive for what it is on paper, and you are paying partly for the tuning and partly for the name. Reviewers who want deep bass are consistently disappointed, because there is no subwoofer. And the cable lengths are fixed and not generous, so measure the run to your machine.
Check the current price on Amazon →
5. Creative Pebble V3 — best small speakers with Bluetooth and USB-C
Rated 4.5 stars across roughly 4,700 ratings. The same idea as the Pebble 2.0 with three useful additions: USB-C, Bluetooth, and a bit more power.
USB-C is the reason to choose this over the cheaper version. It means one modern cable, it works with a laptop that has no full-size USB port, and the digital connection avoids the noise a cheap headphone jack can introduce. Bluetooth then covers the phone, so a small desk gets two sources without cable swapping.
It is the pick for a laptop-centered desk, and particularly for a setup that changes — a machine you take away and bring back, or a desk you share.
- USB-C, which suits modern laptops and avoids analogue noise
- Bluetooth as well, so a phone plays through them without unplugging
- More power than the 2.0 version
- Still angled up at your head
- Tiny footprint
- Solid rating on a decent review base
The drawbacks: it is still a small cabinet, so still limited bass — the extra power makes it louder, not deeper. Bluetooth introduces latency, so use the cable for gaming and video editing. Reviewers report that switching between Bluetooth and the cable is not always seamless. And check whether your laptop’s USB-C port supplies enough power, because a port shared with charging can limit output.
Check the current price on Amazon →
6. Logitech Z906 5.1 — best for films and surround gaming
Rated 4.5 stars across roughly 6,000 ratings. A five-speaker plus subwoofer system with a control console, optical and coaxial inputs and THX certification.
This is a different proposition from everything above and the right answer for one specific situation: a desk that is also a cinema and a gaming rig, in a room where you can put speakers behind you. Positional audio in games benefits from real speakers in real places rather than from a simulated effect, and films have a soundtrack mixed for exactly this arrangement.
The control console is the underrated part — a physical box with input switching and volume within reach, rather than reaching behind a desk or diving into software.
- Real five-channel surround with a subwoofer
- Optical and coaxial inputs as well as analogue
- Physical control console for input switching and volume
- Enough output to fill a room, not just a desk
- Good review base at a reasonable rating
- Works for a console, a PC and a television at once
The catch: it is a lot of boxes and a lot of cable, and running wires to rear speakers in a rented room is a genuine project. The subwoofer will be heard through a floor, which in an apartment is a problem. It is large, heavy and expensive. And for music specifically, a good 2.0 pair sounds better than a 5.1 system at the same cost, because the money goes into two good speakers instead of six adequate ones.
Check the current price on Amazon →
Also in the running
The Logitech Z407 is a 2.1 system with Bluetooth and a wireless control dial, rated around 4.3 stars on nearly 4,000 ratings. It is the option to look at if you want a subwoofer and Bluetooth in one tidy package, and the rating is at the bottom of what we will recommend — the complaints center on the Bluetooth connection and on the control dial’s battery. If you want bass on a desk and do not want cables everywhere, it is worth a look with that caveat.
Why some popular models are missing
- Passive bookshelf speakers, in this guide. They can sound excellent and they need a separate amplifier, which is a different purchase and a different article. Everything here is powered, meaning it plugs into the wall or a USB port and needs nothing else.
- Gaming speakers with RGB lighting. The lights are the product. In nearly every case the same money spent on a plain pair of studio monitors buys substantially better sound.
- Soundbars for a monitor. A soundbar is designed to sit under a television several feet away and to bounce sound off a room. On a desk, at arm’s length, two separated speakers will always produce a better stereo image.
- “Renewed” speakers. Drivers and amplifier boards are what age in a powered speaker, and you cannot assess either from a listing.
- Anything sold on a peak wattage figure. Peak watts are a marketing number and not comparable between brands. Judge by cabinet size, driver size, inputs and reviews.
- Very new speakers with a few hundred ratings. There are a great many in this category each year, in near-identical plastic shells. The proven options are cheap enough that there is no reason to gamble.
- Speakers with the volume control on the back. Sounds trivial. You will reach for it a dozen times a day for years.
How to narrow it down
- Coming from laptop or monitor speakers on a small budget? The Creative Pebble. Sixty-eight thousand people made that choice and it is the right one.
- Do you actually listen to music? The PreSonus studio monitors, and raise them to ear height. Best value here by a distance.
- Do the speakers need to serve a television or a console as well? Something with optical — the Edifier, or the Logitech 5.1.
- Modern laptop with USB-C, and you want Bluetooth too? The Pebble V3.
- Do you want to plug it in once and never think about it? The Bose.
- Films and surround gaming, in a room you can wire? The 5.1 system — and not if you live above someone.
- Apartment, thin walls? 2.0, not 2.1. A subwoofer is heard through floors.
- Small desk? Not bookshelf speakers. Measure before ordering, because bookshelf speakers are bigger than product photographs suggest.
- Whatever you buy: spend a little on stands or isolation pads and raise them to ear height. It is the cheapest real improvement available.
Getting the best out of them
- Raise them to ear height and angle them at your head. Said twice because it is the whole game.
- Put something between the speaker and the desk. Foam pads, small stands, even a folded mousemat. A desk that vibrates is a desk that muddies everything.
- Leave a few inches behind rear-ported speakers and keep them out of corners, unless you like boom.
- Set the speaker volume to a sensible level and use your computer to fine-tune, not the other way round. A speaker turned almost all the way up with the computer at ten percent amplifies hiss.
- If you hear hiss or a whine that changes as you scroll, that is your computer’s analogue output. Move to USB or optical if the speaker supports it.
- Use the cable for gaming and video editing, even on a Bluetooth speaker. Bluetooth latency is small and it is enough to notice.
- Turn off any “enhancement” in your operating system’s sound settings. Bass boost and virtual surround usually make good speakers worse.
- Check the balance in software if one side sounds quieter. It is more often a stray setting than a fault.
- Keep them away from an unshielded phone charger or a monitor power brick, which can induce a buzz into analogue cables.
Frequently asked questions
Are computer speakers better than a monitor’s built-in speakers?
Dramatically, and this is the single biggest upgrade in the whole category. Monitor and laptop speakers are tiny drivers firing backwards or downwards into a hard surface. Almost any real powered pair, properly placed, is a transformation — and the improvement from there upwards is much smaller than the improvement from nothing.
Do I need a subwoofer?
Only if you want bass a small cabinet physically cannot produce, and only if you can live with the consequences: another box under the desk, another cable, and bass that travels through floors and walls. In an apartment we would generally take a good 2.0 pair instead, because the midrange — where voices and most instruments live — is usually cleaner.
Are studio monitors good for a computer?
Yes, and they are the best value in this category if you listen carefully. They sound flat rather than exciting, which is deliberate, and most people prefer them within an hour. Two things to plan for: they usually have no Bluetooth or USB, so you need the right cable, and they need raising to ear height to work as intended.
Why do my speakers hiss or buzz?
Usually your computer’s analogue headphone output, particularly on cheap laptops and motherboards — a whine that changes as you scroll or move the mouse is the giveaway. Switching to a USB or optical connection bypasses that circuitry entirely. A power brick or phone charger lying against an analogue cable can also induce a buzz, so move the cables apart.
Does speaker wattage matter?
Not in the way the boxes imply. Some brands quote continuous power and some quote peak, so the numbers are not comparable between products. Cabinet size, driver size and the inputs offered tell you far more about how a speaker will sound than any wattage figure.
Is Bluetooth good enough for computer speakers?
For music and general listening, yes. For gaming, video calls and any video editing, no — Bluetooth adds latency, and even a small delay is noticeable when sound should match what is on screen. Choose a speaker that also takes a cable and use the cable for those.
Should I put my speakers on stands?
Yes, or on anything that raises them to ear height and decouples them from the desk. It is the cheapest genuine improvement in this guide: it aims the treble at your ears instead of your chest, and it stops the desk acting as a large resonating panel. Small stands, foam isolation pads or even a couple of sturdy books all help.
2.0 or 5.1 for gaming?
Real 5.1 gives genuine positional audio and needs speakers behind you, cables to get them there, and a room you are allowed to do that in. For most desks, a good 2.0 pair sounds better than a 5.1 system of the same total cost, because the money buys two good speakers rather than six adequate ones. A decent gaming headset also beats both for positional accuracy and disturbs nobody.
Short version
If you care how music sounds, buy the PreSonus Eris E3.5 monitors and raise them to ear height — they are the best value in this guide and twenty-one thousand ratings agree. If you want the cheapest sensible escape from laptop speakers, the Creative Pebble has the deepest review base of anything here for a reason. And if the speakers also have to serve a television or a console, the Edifier R1280DB has the inputs and the cabinet volume to do both.
Then spend a very small amount on stands or isolation pads, and angle them at your head. Every speaker on this page sounds better that way, and it is the only upgrade in audio that is essentially free.


